Illinois Camaro Club

This article is being written to assist all of you out there on how to use some simple techniques to either completely change your interior or enhance what you currently have. Sometimes without seeing how easily something can be done, we can be reluctant to try something new on our own. The work here was performed on a 1979 Camaro Z28. It was done in our home garage, using simple tools and a little engineering in some instances. The reason for the color change on this car was for simple aesthetics. The exterior color was changed from a Brown Metallic to a Sun Yellow and a black interior was in order to set this car off.

This multi-part series will explain basic disassembly, modification, repair and installation. I had little or no experience with any of this, just a basic mechanical aptitude. I wanted to show you how you can get professional results with a little patience, a few bucks and some of your time invested. A complete interior change like this one, done by a professional interior shop would have cost between $3000 and $5000 for the labor only. Add in all of the parts purchased and you are looking at an investment of $4600 to $6600. We will include part numbers that we used, where they were purchase and how much they cost at the time this article was written (August 2008) for your reference.

See how we got from the interior that you see above to This.......... for a cost of a little over $1600 and about 40 hours worth of labor (not including drying time for paints and dyes) If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to email vbsman@yahoo.com

Part 1 September 2008

Interiors Part 1 – Disassembly

Let me start out by saying that this is a series of articles written to help those of you trying to perform simple modifications, upgrades or changes to your interiors. I am in no way a professional interior guy. The purpose here is to show you that if I can do it, anyone can. I am sure that there are critics out there that can do a faster or better job. The whole idea here is to get professional results for 1/3 of the cost. All work here was performed on my 79 Camaro Z28 and include a complete interior change, but hold true to most muscle cars of the era. Scan the areas that you are focusing on for information pertinent to your situation. As you are disassembling the interior, it is a good idea to keep zip-lock bags around with a permanent marker to put all of the nuts, bolts and screws into that you will be collecting. Mark the bags appropriately so that reassembly is effortless. Also it is a good idea to disconnect either one or both of your battery cables prior to beginning work on your interior, there are many electronic items involved and its just the best way to go. I am not going to go into the details of screw locations and the highly detailed processes of removal and installation, there are highly illustrated Fisher Body Manuals and year specific Chiltons full size repair manuals available all over Ebay for a couple of bucks to help guide you. The whole idea here is to show that with some basic tools and patience you can get a great looking interior.

1) Back Seat. I started by removing the back seat. This is accomplished by removing the seat bottoms first by pushing down and away from you (towards the back of the car) to release the seat bottom from its anchor point on the floor. Once you have pushed the seat far enough it should pop up out of its retaining channel and be easily removed. Next we remove the seat back by removing the two ½” bolts and washers at the base of the seat back and then by lifting the entire back up and out of the upper retainers. Next we remove the rear seat belts by using a #45 star (torx) socket.

2)       Headliner     Next remove the four Phillips head screws holding the upper rear window trim piece in place. Remove the single Phillips screw holding the ceiling mounted seat belt cover in place and remove the cover. Remove the seat belt retractor by using the same #45 torx socket. Remove the outer front seat belts from the retainer on the seat by prying out the retaining pin on the eyelet, crimping the two sides together and popping it out, and finally remove the outer front seat belt base. Next remove the four Phillips head screws holding the upper front window trim piece in place and set aside. Remove the single Phillips screw from the “Y” side window upper time piece and carefully pop out the plastic trim retainers holding it in place using a trim tool (there are 4 retainers per side). Remove the clothes hooks on the rear sail panels and the 2 sail panel Phillips screws. Remove the sail panels by locating and popping the plastic trim retainers from their sockets with the trim tool. (2 per side) and remove the sail panels. You can now also remove the pillar post moldings on the sides of the front window. Finally remove the entire sun visor assembly from both sides by removing the 3 screws holding them in place. Your headliner should now be held up by your dome light only. Remove the dome light and slide the headliner out.

3)       Rear deck cover.    To remove the rear deck, you will have to unplug and remove any options that you may have installed back there. In my case it was 2 6x9 speakers. Some models may have an electric rear window defogger fan. Once those items are removed the rear deck piece just simply slides out.

4)       Rear Lower Quarter Panels.    The rear lower quarter panels can be removed by first removing the carpet sill plates and their 4 screws and sliding the panels forward away from the body of the car.

5)       Front Seats.     Removing the front seats is a simple process. Slide the seat all the way forward to expose the rear seat bracket bolts and remove them (9/16), then slide the seat all the way back to expose the front frame bolts and remove them (9/16). Remove the seats and set them aside. Now is a good time to remove the front seat inner seat belt buckles using the #45 torx socket.

6)       Center Console.     Begin by opening the center console glove box lid and locating the two 5/16” screws on the bottom of the box. Remove the screws. Remove the box in its entirety. Right below the removed box are two 3/8” screws holding the console to the floor, remove those also. At this time, you can unplug the interior light located at the back of your console if it is so equipped. Locate and remove the two 3/8” bolts at the front of the console under the dash and remove them at this time. Next set the emergency brake, turn the ignition key to the “on” position and move the shifter lever to about the drive position for easy access. Carefully Pry up the shifter button and set aside and using a set of lock ring pliers, remove the lock ring located down in the shifter knob under the push button that you just removed. There is also the retaining clip from the push button that should be set aside. Remove the knob. Remove the 4 screws holding the gear shift indicator plate in place and lift it up and out, disconnecting the light bulb that is attached to it at the same time by simply twisting it from its socket. You can now remove the console from the car.

7)       Front Kick Panels.     I generally do not remove these unless they need extensive repair. There are actuator cable and vacuum lines attached to these that can be quite cumbersome along with the fact that you have to remove the emergency brake pedal also. I mask out the area (only if I’m not changing the carpet) and spray paint these right in the car.

8)       Lower Dash Pieces.      Next I removed all of the lower dash pieces. On a 79 Camaro there are basically 7. 2-underdash/lap vents, left AC vent, the HVAC /Ashtray piece under the steering wheel, the radio piece, glove box, and right AC vent. These in my car were all attached with 9/32” screws and where pretty easy to remove. The most difficult part is the HVAC controls and there, I just removed the screws attaching it to the trim piece and wire tied it up and out of the way under the dash.

9)       Dash.    Remove the steering wheel by removing the horn cover (gently fold it back to remove its center emblem in prep for paint) to expose the lock ring and nut. Remove both, and then the horn ring and its 3 screws. Then using a steering wheel puller to remove the steering wheel. Loosen the steering column under the dash (don’t remove the nuts all of the way) and let it hang so that you can remove the gauge trim plate. Remove the screws holding the trim plate in place and gently slide it out as far as it will go. Unplug the headlight switch and windshield wiper switch and finish removing the plate. Now in my case I am using a dash pad cover, but whether you are using a cover, replacing the pad, or just leaving it intact, follow the instructions supplied with each to install them. I masked off all of my gauges and the front windshield in prep for dying the existing dash pad. I wasn’t sure which areas would still be exposed and I wanted good coverage. At this time you can remove the door panels also.

10)   Carpet.   The final part of the process is to simply remove the carpet and its pad. Look for any loose screws that you might have missed and possibly the build sheet for your car. Vacuum up all of the debris. Check any of your wiring running from front to back now for nicks, cracks or breaks and replace as necessary. Now is also a good time to add any sound/heat barrier to the floors and in the doors.


	You are now ready for the next and more detailed phase, prep and paint See you next month!!!

Part 2. Prep and Paint.